A Saturday Detour: Umtanum Creek Falls

Saturday began the way most October mornings do in the Snoqualmie Valley: low clouds pressed against the hills, the air thick with damp pine and the muted smell of cedar mulch. It was a day built for errands—garbage to the transfer station, a grocery run, the weekend checklist. But once you crest Snoqualmie Pass, the world tilts.

As the highway dipped toward Ellensburg, the fog unraveled, and the muted gray gave way to wide skies and sharp light. Central Washington in autumn has a crispness that feels almost foreign if you’ve just come from the west side. Here the palette shifts: basalt ridges, golden grass, and a sun that finds its way through.

It was too fine a day to waste on chores alone. The truck veered off before town, gravel crunching under the tires at the Umtanum Creek Falls trailhead.

Into the Canyon

The Umtanum Creek Falls Trail isn’t long—barely three miles round-trip—but it carries the kind of quiet reward you don’t always find on the west side. The path threads through groves of cottonwood, their yellowing leaves flickering like coins in the breeze, and follows the steady ribbon of Umtanum Creek as it cuts a line through the basalt.

Wildlife made itself known right away. A covey of California Quail—twenty or thirty strong—burst from the sagebrush with a clatter of wings, scattering up the slope before regrouping in the brush. Ruby-crowned Kinglets jittered nervously in the undergrowth, a blur of constant motion. Overhead, Steller’s Jays cawed sharply, their voices echoing against the canyon walls.

One robin lingered on a bare branch, as though reluctant to admit the season had changed. A flock of Cedar Waxwings sailed overhead in practiced formation, their silky bodies catching the light, while a Yellow-rumped Warbler flashed its golden flank as it crossed the creek. For a trail so close to town, the variety was striking—autumn migration written across the landscape.

Crossing Paths

Halfway in, the solitude shifted. Two hunters appeared, rifles slung, moving slowly and deliberately through the canyon. They were tracking elk sign in the draws, eyes scanning the ridges where the cottonwoods gave way to grass. Our conversation was brief—a nod, a remark about the weather, and then the quiet shuffle of them moving on. The canyon held space for all of us: the hiker, the birder, the hunter. Different intentions, same ground.

The Falls

The trail ends at a basalt bowl where Umtanum Creek leaps from the rock in a clean, white veil. The waterfall isn’t towering, but it feels hidden, tucked away like a secret reward. Sunlight dappled the pool at its base, the sound of the water filling the small amphitheater. I stood for a while, letting the week fall away, the cool air sharpening every sense.

Back to the List

Eventually, I turned back. The quail had vanished, the jays had grown quiet, and the canyon seemed to fold back into itself. By the time I reached the truck, the weekend errands still waited—garbage to drop at the transfer station, groceries to load—but they felt lighter, less urgent.

Sometimes, in the span of a single Saturday, you can cross the Cascades, trade gray drizzle for sun-splashed basalt, and remind yourself that even errands can be interrupted by discovery. Umtanum Creek Falls may not be a destination hike, but as a detour, it delivers exactly what you didn’t know you needed.

If You Go: Umtanum Creek Falls

• Trailhead Location: About 15 minutes west of Ellensburg, near Umtanum Road. Look for the small gravel lot with signage for the trail.

• Distance: ~3 miles round-trip.

• Difficulty: Easy to moderate. Trail is mostly flat with a short climb near the falls.

• Best Season: Spring for wildflowers and fall for crisp weather and migrating birds. Summer can be hot, and winter access may be tricky with snow.

• Wildlife: Keep an eye out for California Quail, kinglets, warblers, and the occasional elk in the area. Hunters use the region in fall, so wearing bright colors is recommended.

• Amenities: No restrooms at the trailhead. Pack water and snacks.

• Tip: Pair the hike with errands in Ellensburg, a brewery stop in town, or as a scenic detour when crossing the Cascades.