Alpine Lakes Wilderness #19 - Denny Creek to Melakwa Lake

I think there are some hikes that are best saved for overcast days, like the trail to Melakwa Lake.

The forecast called for rain throughout much of Sunday, but the weather cooperated. The showers mostly held off, leaving behind cool temperatures, low clouds, and just enough moisture to make the forest feel alive. It was one of those classic Pacific Northwest mornings where the air feels fresh rather than cold, and every shade of green seems just a little brighter.

I arrived early enough that the trail was still relatively quiet. Most hikers exchanged the usual quick greetings before disappearing into the trees. The only exception was one particularly talkative gentleman who seemed determined to provide the entire trail with a running commentary. As I passed, he was enthusiastically explaining to his wife and daughter the finer points of deleting their browser history. His wife, meanwhile, appeared to be increasing her pace with each sentence, creating more and more distance between herself and this trail's version of Cliff Clavin. Some conversations are apparently better left at home though I doubt the wife would have enjoyed the topic any more at home than on the trail.

The hike begins gently enough, winding through dense forest before passing beneath Interstate 90. It's always a little surreal to step from the quiet woods under a busy freeway and then immediately return to the sounds of rushing water and birdsong.

Not long afterward comes one of the trail's defining features: crossing the broad granite slabs beside Denny Creek. In dry weather they're beautiful. After rain—or even after a damp night—they demand respect. The polished rock becomes surprisingly slick, and every foot placement deserves a second thought.

Beyond Denny Creek, the character of the trail changes dramatically. The smooth forest path gives way to an increasingly rugged climb over rocks and roots. Progress becomes slower, not because of the elevation alone, but because nearly every step requires choosing the next stable rock. It's the kind of trail that rewards patience more than speed.

Fortunately, the weather made the climb almost ideal. Had the sun been out, the open rocky slopes above the forest would have reflected heat and made the ascent much more demanding. Instead, the cloud cover kept temperatures comfortable throughout the climb. It was easy to appreciate the scenery without constantly searching for the next patch of shade.

When I finally reached Melakwa Lake, it was hidden beneath a blanket of fog. The shoreline disappeared into the mist, giving the lake an almost mysterious quality. For several minutes it seemed as though the clouds intended to keep their secret.

Then, almost as quickly as they had settled in, the fog began to lift.

The opposite shoreline slowly emerged, followed by the surrounding cliffs and forests. It wasn't a perfectly clear day, but it was clear enough to appreciate why Melakwa is one of the most beloved alpine lakes along the I-90 corridor. I lingered just long enough to enjoy the view before the clouds began gathering again and it was time to head back down.

Not every hike needs blue skies to be memorable. Sometimes the changing weather becomes part of the experience. On this day, the clouds framed the landscape rather than hiding it, the cool temperatures made a rugged trail more enjoyable, and even the trail's self-appointed technology expert added a bit of unintended entertainment along the way.

My biggest complaint on the hike was the surprisingly good cell coverage. I started getting texts just after 8:30 about upcoming appointments and 4th of July BBQ sales. But I didn't the connection to the outside world linger. I easily emersed myself back into the forest around me as I navigated over the slippery rocks.

Trail Notes

If You Go

• Trail: Denny Creek to Melakwa Lake

• Round-trip distance: Approximately 8.5 miles

• Elevation gain: About 2,300 feet

• Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous, with extensive rocky footing

• Best season: Late June through October, depending on snow conditions

• Parking: Denny Creek Trailhead off Exit 47 on Interstate 90. A Northwest Forest Pass or equivalent recreation pass is typically required.

• Highlights: Granite creek crossings, old-growth forest, rugged alpine trail, Melakwa Lake, surrounding peaks.

• Watch for: Slippery granite slabs near Denny Creek, uneven rocky footing for much of the climb, and rapidly changing mountain weather.

A Little History

The Denny Creek corridor has long been one of the primary gateways into the central Alpine Lakes Wilderness. The wilderness, established in 1976, protects nearly 400,000 acres of rugged mountains, hundreds of alpine lakes, and extensive old-growth forests. Melakwa Lake takes its name from the Chinook Jargon word melakwa, meaning "mosquitoes"—an apt reminder that warm summer evenings at alpine lakes often come with persistent company.

Today, despite its proximity to Interstate 90, the trail still offers a satisfying transition from the modern world to the rugged heart of the Cascades. Within a few miles, the noise of traffic fades behind rushing creeks, granite slabs, and mountain fog, leaving only the rhythm of careful footsteps on the rocks.